Planting a Lakeview Rose

Your rose has been delivered to your home, and so the gardening fun begins!

Your rose will thrive when you plant it in its naturally preferred location.

Roses love sun; the more sun, the better.
- Practically, this means at least 6 hours of direct sunlight a day.
- In a very hot climate, some afternoon shade can be of benefit.
Roots do not like standing water.
Make sure the rose has enough space to grow and that its roots are not competing with trees, hedges, or large ornamental grasses.

Prune the rose canes to 6-8 inches and lightly prune the root tips.
Hydrate as needed: If your roots look dry, let the plant soak in a bucket of water for 2 hours, but for no more than 24 hours.
Dig a big hole: The hole must be twice as big as the root ball. This allows the roots to establish themselves more quickly without needing to push through more compact soil from the outset.
Be sure to dig the hole deep enough so the graft union is below soil level while the roots are straight. For CA Zones 4-5 | USDA 3-4, it should be 2” below the soil level; for CA Zones 6-8 | USDA 5-7 zones, it should be at least 1” below the soil level.
Add amendments as needed: If existing soils are of good quality, no soil amendment is required. Your roses can generally benefit from these additions.

Compost or well-rotted manure, 1 shovel, can benefit soil structure, provide a slow release of nutrients, and boost microbial soil life, all of which support the long-term health of the rose.
One cup of bone meal mixed into the soil adds phosphorus, which supports root and flower development. It is gentle enough not to burn the roots. It works best in acidic soils.
Alfalfa Pellets, 1 cup mixed into the soil, adds triacontanol, a gentle root growth hormone, trace minerals, and some KPK 3-1-2, and acts as a soil conditioner.
Mycorrhizae, 1 tablespoon dusted on the roots of the roses, is a fungus that increases the symbiotic relationship between the roots and the soil. It increases water and nutrient absorption (especially phosphorus), improves drought tolerance, enhances disease resistance, and supports overall plant health. Don't mix with high-phosphorus fertilizers initially, as excess phosphorus can inhibit mycorrhizal colonization.

Be sure to mix in the chosen amendments with two shovels of the soil removed from the hole.

Depending on the root structures, make a hill in the hole so that the bare roots can be fanned around the hill, and once the soil is added, they don’t collapse and compress into each other.
With the rose in place and the bud union at the appropriate depth (a stick or shovel resting over the hole can help with depth levelling). Fill the hole ½ way with the soil, water, and wait for the water to drain.
Fill the rest of the hole, lightly compress the soil, leaving a slight indentation around the base. Then water again.
Mound up soil and/or mulch around the base of the rose in a hill covering it so only the tops of the canes are visible. This will offer protection to the new plant by keeping moisture in. This is beneficial in both hot and cold climates where wind, sun or frost can cause evaporation, drying out your new plant. Gently remove the soil after 10 days to 2 weeks taking care not to break any new growth.

Deep watering is one large watering can (4–5 litres) per rose at each watering.

SPRING

Most gardens won’t need much watering in spring unless there is a prolonged dry spell.
Recently planted roses: water during dry periods to help roots establish.
Potted or container roses: monitor closely; containers dry out faster and may need watering more regularly.

SUMMER

Established roses: water deeply every other week.
Recently planted roses: water twice a week while they develop their root systems.
Roses in pots or containers: water every other day; in very hot weather, twice as often may be necessary.
Always adjust based on your soil type, heat, and rainfall.
Water twice as often in hot weather.

FERTILIZE - Do not use fertilizer until after the first flush of blooms. If possible, only use organic fertilizers as needed during the first year.
MULCH - After watering, you can apply 2” layer of mulch around the base reaching to the width of the canopy. For mulch, you can use, garden compost, well-rotted manure or other recommended products.
DEADHEAD - After each flush, prune the spent flower head to the first set of 5 leaflets, while creating a rounded and balanced shape as you go. This will promote faster, stronger reblooming.
SPRAY - Follow the manufacturer's instructions and choose a dry, possibly overcast day, or a morning or evening.
CANADIAN & NORTHERN STATE CLIMATES: Don't fertilize your roses after Labour Day. Generally, avoid pruning your roses in the fall. After a few consistent nights of frosts, mound the base of the rose with good mulch or garden soil for extra protection.